Route : Samsun, Turkey >>> Suemela, Turkey
Approx Distance : 420km
This morning was much more pleasant than the previous ones. We were closer to civilian settlement though…so got some curious stares from people around. Dink did his usual vehicle check including the engine oil level. We set off soon thereafter. We wanted to have breakfast in a restaurant this time and stopped at one along the highway. Rajesh had some special Turkish soup while the rest had a more traditional bread, egg and cheese combo.

About to set off...
Today’s aim was to drive along the lovely coastal highway till Trabzon (a popular tourist destination along the black sea coast) and then veer off inland till we hit Suemela, where according to pictures in the Lonely Planet guidebook, existed a stunning monastery/museum perched up on the sheer cliffs of the region. That was definitely something to look forward to.
We were making decent progress…it was a well laid asphalt highway comparable to the ones in west Europe. There were a whole bunch of traffic signals along the way though. Nevertheless, we stopped to tank up when suddenly we heard Dink cursing loudly. It turns out that he forgot to put back on the engine oil cap after his morning check. And after an hour or so of driving, the oil was all over the engine bay…hmm…no big deal if we can find a suitable spare part. We made our way a couple of kms more until we hit what could be described as the auto repair mecca in that region. Dozens of workshops each specializing in different things. It was the place to be for anything to do with wheels, steel and grease.
We did not manage to find a spare cap but we did find someone who machined us a suitable replacement in no time.
Costed 30TL. At this point, we thought…why not get the third seat (flicked from an Opel Astra from a junkyard in Karlsruhe, Germany the day before we left Germany), which we have been carrying with us all along, welded in place. Well, we have a Peugeot Partner for a vehicle and it happens to be a 2 seater utility vehicle. But since we were 3 in this car (and 2 in the Suzuki), we needed this third seat (which we now refer to as “Raja’s seat of honor”) in place.
Anyway, we found someone (who was wearing an ADAC T-shirt btw) to do the job for us…he turned out to be a mechanic and had loads of friends (and one brother!!) in the surrounding workshops.
We had to remove the fuel tank to even get started with the seat. If we didn’t, in the words of the Turkish mechanics “Booom!”! So thats what we did after siphoning out the gasoline first. Then a couple of very cool dudes from a seat shop bolted/welded 4 legs onto the seat and in the end, bolted it in place in the car. A complicated piece of work in the end involving 5 people, 5 hours, some grocery shopping in the middle, a stint at the local beach and loads of laughs interacting with these guys. The mechanics were very friendly and were totally into saying “Masah-allah” and knocking each others pot bellies together. Strange as it may sound, there was this fraternal feeling to it all. And in time, one of them did it to me as well!
Felt a bit weird…
Anyway, the seat was in place. A brief discussion ensued about trying to put in place holders for the 2 spare tires which we have in the cabin right now…but that went nowhere. Anyway, just when i paid the guy his 150TL and was about to walk out, it started pouring from the heavens…POURING! The sky was black with rain clouds and the sea was shining from the streaks of light escaping through the occasional gap among those stubborn clouds. At one point the Suzuki lost control for a brief moment when it hydro-planed on the highway…luckily nothing drastic happened. We made steady progress and made it in one piece to Trabzon.

Engine oil all over...hmm...
Since the extra seat took the whole of 5 hours to put in, our original idea of taking a Turkish bath in Trabzon went down the drain. We carried on driving into the country roads towards Suemela. We had a bit of a adrenalin overdose when an oncoming van veered into our path…some quick maneuvering was required…handled. Driving in the dark is not that fun…not because its harder but because one cant see the region ones driving through. The bad roads slowly gave way to worse and hilly ones to top it up. We realized that we were working our way up…which was good…at least we knew that we were en-route to Suemela. But after some point, we started hearing really loud roaring of flowing water…we couldn’t see it though. And it remained with us all the way till the end…too bad we couldn’t see the water.
Since it was raining, our original idea of camping in the forest couldn’t really work out executed…and Lonely Planet to the rescue! It did say that there were some kind of bungalow available for tourists with included kitchenette etc. We called them up and confirmed availability. yay! But we sorta were looking for the Suemela parking lot and we kept driving…and driving…the road got unbelievably steep and twisty…coulndt go beyond first gear i couldn’t! Anyway, the just like that…the road ended! And we saw a sign indicating that one should proceed on foot from now on to reach the monastery. Apparently we overshot the parking lot and drove right up to the monastery!
It was all foggy, rainy, dark and damp. After a bit of retracing our paths, we found these bungalows…they were 2 room affairs, all wooden. The locals seem to make up any price they wanted once they see that we were foreigners…which was not done. But we haggled as much as we could and settled on the price. The kitchenette turned out to be a wooden stove with an integrated chimney. They did provide us some wood though…but nothing to kindle it with. We did have our grilling stuff…and we threw in some of the white camphor kind of stuff and tried to get it going…but to no avail. We still had some of that grilling liquid left…so that’s what we used now. It did get the flames going alright…but still nothing substantial. Meanwhile Rajesh went into the shower and Kristie was in the room. Dink and me were still trying to get the fire going…we were pretty much pooped and as time went on, our eyes started dropping and we were losing control of our senses…

Raja's seat of honor..
One more shot with the liquid…nothing happened. Some more poured in, nothing. Hmmm…i thought i should probably pour more in at some other angle and did just that. But what happened next was something which was really scary! The liquid essentially caught fire all at once and burst upwards out of the stove and onto the bottle which i was holding. Suddenly everyone was awake again…Kristie ran out of the bungalow shouting “RAJESH RAJESH GET OUT GET OUT!!”, I ran out trying to drag Rajeshs bag (which was now on fire) with one hand while still holding the bottle flaming at the mouth in the other, Dink was trying to put out the fire which was now all over the room thanks to the droplets of fluid which splashed out as i jerked the bottle away!! I put out the fire in the bottle and ran in to help Dink. We managed to put out the small flames all over the place…phew. It lasted the whole of 15 seconds or so…and luckily nothing burnt or no damage done. I think this liquid has a very low combustion temperature…thank god. To think what could have happened if this had been kerosene or something with a cabin made of wood and carpeting to boot…wow…is even more scary!
People were frazzled now…Me and Dink exchanged looks of relief, Kristie was pissed off at me and my carelessness i think and Rajesh, of course, was still taking his shower! Anyway, no one really felt like burning the wood or drinking hot tea anymore…we just dropped everything and crashed off. What a day!
Approx Distance : 420km
This morning was much more pleasant than the previous ones. We were closer to civilian settlement though…so got some curious stares from people around. Dink did his usual vehicle check including the engine oil level. We set off soon thereafter. We wanted to have breakfast in a restaurant this time and stopped at one along the highway. Rajesh had some special turkish soup while the rest had a more traditional bread, egg and cheese combo.
Today’s aim was to drive along the lovely coastal highway till Trabzon (a popular tourist destination along the black sea coast) and then veer off inland till we hit Suemela, where according to pictures in the Lonely Planet guidebook, existed a stunning monastery/museum perched up on the sheer cliffs of the region. That was definitely something to look forward to.
We were making decent progress…it was a well laid asphalt highway comparable to the ones in west Europe. There were a whole bunch of traffic signals along the way though. Nevertheless, we stopped to tank up when suddenly we heard Dink cursing loudly. It turns out that he forgot to put back on the engine oil cap after his morning check. And after an hour or so of driving, the oil was all over the engine bay…hmm…no big deal if we can find a suitable spare part. We made our way a couple of kms more until we hit what could be described as the auto repair mecca in that region. Dozens of workshops each specialising in different things. It was the place to be for anything to do with wheels, steel and grease.
We did not manage to find a spare cap but we did find someone who machined us a suitable replacement in no time.
Costed 30TL. At this point, we thought…why not get the third seat (flicked from an Opel Astra from a junkyard in Karlsruhe, Germany the day before we left Germany), which we have been carrying with us all along, welded in place. Well, we have a Peugeot Partner for a vehicle and it happens to be a 2 seater utility vehicle. But since we were 3 in this car (and 2 in the Suzuki), we needed this third seat (which we now refer to as “Raja’s seat of honor”) in place.
Anyway, we found someone (who was wearing an ADAC Tshirt btw) to do the job for us…he turned out to be a mechanic and had loads of friends (and one brother!!) in the surrounding workshops.
We had to remove the fuel tank to even get started with the seat. If we didnt, in the words of the turkish mechanics “Booom!”! So thats what we did after siphoning out the gasoline first. Then a couple of very cool dudes from a seat shop bolted/welded 4 legs onto the seat and in the end, bolted it in place in the car. A complicated piece of work in the end involving 5 people, 5 hours, some grocery shopping in the middle, a stint at the local beach and loads of laughs interacting with these guys. The mechanics were very friendly and were totally into saying “Masah-allah” and knocking each others pot bellies together. Strange as it may sound, there was this fraternal feeling to it all. And in time, one of them did it to me as well!
Felt a bit weird…
Anyway, the seat was in place. A brief discussion ensued about trying to put in place holders for the 2 spare tires which we have in the cabin right now…but that went nowhere. Anyway, just when i paid the guy his 150TL and was about to walk out, it started pouring from the heavens…POURING! The sky was black with rain clouds and the sea was shining from the streaks of light escaping through the occasional gap among those stubborn clouds. At one point the suzuki lost control for a brief moment when it hydro-planed on the highway…luckily nothing drastic happened. We made steady progress and made it in one piece to Trabzon.
Since the extra seat took the whole of 5 hours to put in, our original idea of taking a turkish bath in Trabzon went down the drain. We carried on driving into the country roads towards Suemela. We had a bit of a adrenalin overdose when an oncoming van veered into our path…some quick maneuvering was required…handled. Driving in the dark is not that fun…not because its harder but because one cant see the region ones driving through. The bad roads slowly gave way to worse and hilly ones to top it up. We realised that we were working our way up…which was good…atleast we knew that we were enroute to Suemela. But after some point, we started hearing really loud roaring of flowing water…we couldnt see it though. And it remained with us all the way till the end…too bad we couldnt see the water.
Since it was raining, our original idea of camping in the forest couldnt really work out executed…and Lonely Planet to the rescue! It did say that there were some kind of bunglow available for tourists with included kitchenette etc. We called them up and confirmed availability. yay! But we sorta were looking for the Suemela parking lot and we kept driving…and driving…the road got unbelievably steep and twisty…coulndt go beyond first gear i couldnt! Anyway, the just like that…the road ended! And we saw a sign indicating that one should proceed on foot from now on to reach the monastery. Apparently we overshot the parking lot and drove right up to the monastery!
It was all foggy, rainly, dark and damp. After a bit of retracing our paths, we found these bunglows…they were 2 room affairs, all wooden. The locals seem to make up any price they wanted once they see that we were foreigners…which was not done. But we haggled as much as we could and settled on the price. The kitchenette turned out to be a wooden stove with an integtrated chimney. They did provide us some wood though…but nothing to kindle it with. We did have our grilling stuff…and we threw in some of the white camphor kind of stuff and tried to get it going…but to no avail. We still had some of that grilling liquid left…so thats what we used now. It did get the flames going alright…but still nothing substantial. Meanwhile Rajesh went into the shower and Kristie was in the room. Dink and me were still trying to get the fire going…we were pretty much pooped and as time went on, our eyes started dropping and we were losing control of our senses…
One more shot with the liquid…nothing happened. Some more poured in, nothing. Hmmm…i thought i should probably pour more in at some other angle and did just that. But what happened next was something which was really scary! The liquid essentially caught fire all at once and burst upwards out of the stove and onto the bottle which i was holding. Suddenly everyone was awake again…Kristie ran out of the bunglow shouting “RAJESH RAJESH GET OUT GET OUT!!”, I ran out trying to drag Rajeshs bag (which was now on fire) with one hand while still holding the bottle flaming at the mouth in the other, Dink was trying to put out the fire which was now all over the room thanks to the droplets of fluid which splashed out as i jerked the bottle away!! I put out the fire in the bottle and ran in to help Dink. We managed to put out the small flames all over the place…phew. It lasted the whole of 15 seconds or so…and luckily nothing burnt or no damage done. I think this liquid has a very low combustion temperature…thank god. To think what could have happened if this had been kerosene or something with a cabin made of wood and carpetting to boot…wow…is even more scary!
People were frazzled now…Me and Dink exchanged looks of relief, Kristie was pissed off at me and my carelessness i think and Rajesh, of course, was still taking his shower! Anyway, no one really felt like burning the wood or drnking hot tea anymore…we just dropped everything and crashed off. What a day!Route : Samsun, Turkey >>> Suemela, Turkey
Approx Distance : 420km
This morning was much more pleasant than the previous ones. We were closer to civilian settlement though…so got some curious stares from people around. Dink did his usual vehicle check including the engine oil level. We set off soon thereafter. We wanted to have breakfast in a restaurant this time and stopped at one along the highway. Rajesh had some special turkish soup while the rest had a more traditional bread, egg and cheese combo.
Today’s aim was to drive along the lovely coastal highway till Trabzon (a popular tourist destination along the black sea coast) and then veer off inland till we hit Suemela, where according to pictures in the Lonely Planet guidebook, existed a stunning monastery/museum perched up on the sheer cliffs of the region. That was definitely something to look forward to.
We were making decent progress…it was a well laid asphalt highway comparable to the ones in west Europe. There were a whole bunch of traffic signals along the way though. Nevertheless, we stopped to tank up when suddenly we heard Dink cursing loudly. It turns out that he forgot to put back on the engine oil cap after his morning check. And after an hour or so of driving, the oil was all over the engine bay…hmm…no big deal if we can find a suitable spare part. We made our way a couple of kms more until we hit what could be described as the auto repair mecca in that region. Dozens of workshops each specialising in different things. It was the place to be for anything to do with wheels, steel and grease.
We did not manage to find a spare cap but we did find someone who machined us a suitable replacement in no time.
Costed 30TL. At this point, we thought…why not get the third seat (flicked from an Opel Astra from a junkyard in Karlsruhe, Germany the day before we left Germany), which we have been carrying with us all along, welded in place. Well, we have a Peugeot Partner for a vehicle and it happens to be a 2 seater utility vehicle. But since we were 3 in this car (and 2 in the Suzuki), we needed this third seat (which we now refer to as “Raja’s seat of honor”) in place.
Anyway, we found someone (who was wearing an ADAC Tshirt btw) to do the job for us…he turned out to be a mechanic and had loads of friends (and one brother!!) in the surrounding workshops.
We had to remove the fuel tank to even get started with the seat. If we didnt, in the words of the turkish mechanics “Booom!”! So thats what we did after siphoning out the gasoline first. Then a couple of very cool dudes from a seat shop bolted/welded 4 legs onto the seat and in the end, bolted it in place in the car. A complicated piece of work in the end involving 5 people, 5 hours, some grocery shopping in the middle, a stint at the local beach and loads of laughs interacting with these guys. The mechanics were very friendly and were totally into saying “Masah-allah” and knocking each others pot bellies together. Strange as it may sound, there was this fraternal feeling to it all. And in time, one of them did it to me as well!
Felt a bit weird…
Anyway, the seat was in place. A brief discussion ensued about trying to put in place holders for the 2 spare tires which we have in the cabin right now…but that went nowhere. Anyway, just when i paid the guy his 150TL and was about to walk out, it started pouring from the heavens…POURING! The sky was black with rain clouds and the sea was shining from the streaks of light escaping through the occasional gap among those stubborn clouds. At one point the suzuki lost control for a brief moment when it hydro-planed on the highway…luckily nothing drastic happened. We made steady progress and made it in one piece to Trabzon.
Since the extra seat took the whole of 5 hours to put in, our original idea of taking a turkish bath in Trabzon went down the drain. We carried on driving into the country roads towards Suemela. We had a bit of a adrenalin overdose when an oncoming van veered into our path…some quick maneuvering was required…handled. Driving in the dark is not that fun…not because its harder but because one cant see the region ones driving through. The bad roads slowly gave way to worse and hilly ones to top it up. We realised that we were working our way up…which was good…atleast we knew that we were enroute to Suemela. But after some point, we started hearing really loud roaring of flowing water…we couldnt see it though. And it remained with us all the way till the end…too bad we couldnt see the water.
Since it was raining, our original idea of camping in the forest couldnt really work out executed…and Lonely Planet to the rescue! It did say that there were some kind of bunglow available for tourists with included kitchenette etc. We called them up and confirmed availability. yay! But we sorta were looking for the Suemela parking lot and we kept driving…and driving…the road got unbelievably steep and twisty…coulndt go beyond first gear i couldnt! Anyway, the just like that…the road ended! And we saw a sign indicating that one should proceed on foot from now on to reach the monastery. Apparently we overshot the parking lot and drove right up to the monastery!
It was all foggy, rainly, dark and damp. After a bit of retracing our paths, we found these bunglows…they were 2 room affairs, all wooden. The locals seem to make up any price they wanted once they see that we were foreigners…which was not done. But we haggled as much as we could and settled on the price. The kitchenette turned out to be a wooden stove with an integtrated chimney. They did provide us some wood though…but nothing to kindle it with. We did have our grilling stuff…and we threw in some of the white camphor kind of stuff and tried to get it going…but to no avail. We still had some of that grilling liquid left…so thats what we used now. It did get the flames going alright…but still nothing substantial. Meanwhile Rajesh went into the shower and Kristie was in the room. Dink and me were still trying to get the fire going…we were pretty much pooped and as time went on, our eyes started dropping and we were losing control of our senses…
One more shot with the liquid…nothing happened. Some more poured in, nothing. Hmmm…i thought i should probably pour more in at some other angle and did just that. But what happened next was something which was really scary! The liquid essentially caught fire all at once and burst upwards out of the stove and onto the bottle which i was holding. Suddenly everyone was awake again…Kristie ran out of the bunglow shouting “RAJESH RAJESH GET OUT GET OUT!!”, I ran out trying to drag Rajeshs bag (which was now on fire) with one hand while still holding the bottle flaming at the mouth in the other, Dink was trying to put out the fire which was now all over the room thanks to the droplets of fluid which splashed out as i jerked the bottle away!! I put out the fire in the bottle and ran in to help Dink. We managed to put out the small flames all over the place…phew. It lasted the whole of 15 seconds or so…and luckily nothing burnt or no damage done. I think this liquid has a very low combustion temperature…thank god. To think what could have happened if this had been kerosene or something with a cabin made of wood and carpetting to boot…wow…is even more scary!
People were frazzled now…Me and Dink exchanged looks of relief, Kristie was pissed off at me and my carelessness i think and Rajesh, of course, was still taking his shower! Anyway, no one really felt like burning the wood or drnking hot tea anymore…we just dropped everything and crashed off. What a day!























